The chemistry of fragrances : from perfumer to consumer /: from perfumer to consumer. (2015)

• Record Type: Book
• Further Information: Note: Edited by Charles Sell.
• Other Names: Sell, Charles S; Royal Society of Chemistry (Great Britain)
• Contents: Glossary -- 1. The human relationship with fragrance / Linda Harman -- 2. The history of aroma chemistry and perfume / David H. Pybus -- 2.1. Early use of fragrance -- 2.2. The age of chivalry -- 2.3. The age of alchemy -- 2.4. The age of discovery -- 2.5. The age of revolution -- 2.6. The age of empire (nineteenth century) -- 2.6.1. Technique -- 2.6.2. Structured perfumes, and use of synthetics -- 2.6.3. Industrialisation and 'massification' -- 2.7. The age of fashion (twentieth century) -- 3. Perfumery materials of natural origin / Charles Sell -- 3.1. Perfumes and odours in nature -- 3.1.1. Introduction -- 3.1.2. Biosynthesis -- 3.2. Extraction of natural perfume ingredients -- 3.2.1. Expression -- 3.2.2. Distillation -- 3.2.3. Solvent extraction -- 3.3. Adulteration of natural perfume ingredients -- 3.4. From natural to synthetic -- References. 4. Ingredients for the modern perfumery industry / Charles Sell -- 4.1. Economic factors affecting perfume ingredient production -- 4.2. Perfume ingredients derived from terpenoids -- 4.2.1. Introduction -- 4.2.2. Five key terpenoids -- 4.2.3. Feedstocks -- 4.2.4. Pinene pyrolysis -- 4.2.5. Pinane pyrolysis -- 4.2.6. The Carroll reaction -- 4.2.7. The Claisen rearrangement -- 4.2.8. Prenyl chloride -- 4.2.9. The Ene reaction -- 4.2.10. Elegance, a four-step process -- 4.2.11. Hemiterpenoids -- 4.2.12. Acyclic monoterpenoids -- 4.2.13. Cyclic monoterpenes -- 4.2.14. Menthol -- 4.2.15. Bicyclic monoterpenoids -- 4.2.16. Sesquiterpenoids -- 4.2.17. Cedarwood -- 4.2.18. Sandalwood -- 4.2.19. Diterpenoids -- 4.2.20. Ambergris -- 4.2.21. Ionones and related compounds -- 4.3. Musks -- 4.4. Perfume ingredients derived from benzene -- 4.5. Perfume ingredients derived from toluene -- 4.6. Perfume ingredients derived from phenol -- 4.7. Perfume ingredients derived from naphthalene -- 4.8. Perfume ingredients derived from aliphatic materials -- 4.9. Perfume ingredients derived from cyclopentanone -- 4.10. Perfume ingredients derived from dicyclopentadiene -- 4.11. Conclusions -- References. 5. The structure of an international fragrance company / David H. Pybus -- 5.1. The business-getting chain -- 5.2. The supply chain -- References -- 6. The perfume brief / David H. Pybus -- 6.1. Brief for Eve, prepared by Business Scents Ltd -- 6.1.1. Background -- 6.1.2. Product range -- 6.1.3. General -- 6.1.4. Fragrance -- 6.1.5. Timescale -- 6.1.6. Brief recipients -- 6.1.7. Price -- 6.1.8. Production -- 6.2. Toxicology -- 7. Perfumer creation : the role of the perfumer / Les Small -- 7.1. Soap -- 7.2. Shampoo -- 7.3. Shower and bath gel -- 7.4. Antiperspirant -- Reference -- 8. Measurement of fragrance perception / Anne Churchill -- 8.1. Introduction -- 8.2. Market research -- 8.3. Sensory analysis -- 8.3.1. Threshold -- 8.3.2. Intensity -- 8.3.3. Quality -- 8.3.3.1. Qualitative descriptive analysis -- 8.3.3.2. Odour profiling -- 8.3.4. Statistical techniques -- 8.3.4.1. Multidimensional scaling -- 8.3.4.2. Principal component analysis -- 8.4. Multisensory approach -- 8.5. Psychology of perfume -- 8.6. The business scents brief -- 8.6.1. Definition of the appropriate odour area -- 8.7. Analysis of ingredients to convey the appropriate odour characteristics -- 8.8. Creating fragrances for the future -- References. 9. The application of fragrance / Judi Beerling -- 9.1. The role of the applications department -- 9.2. Product formulations -- 9.2.1. Fine fragrance -- 9.2.2. Vegetable soap -- 9.2.3. Aerosol antiperspirant -- 9.2.4 Shampoo -- 9.2.5. Shower and bath gel -- 9.3. Stability testing -- 9.3.1. Humidity testing -- 9.3.2. Light testing -- 9.3.3. Assessment and reporting of results -- References -- 10. The safety and toxicology of fragrances / Steve Meakins -- 10.1. Introduction -- 10.2. Self regulation -- 10.3. Safety assessment -- 10.4. Skin irritation -- 10.5. Skin sensitisation -- 10.6. Photoeffects -- 10.7. Neurotoxicity -- 10.8. Reproductive effects -- 10.9. Natural ingredients -- 10.10. Conclusions -- References -- 11. Volatility and substantivity / Keith D. Perring -- 11.1. Perfume creation and physical chemistry -- 11.2. Perfume ingredient volatility -- 11.3. Perfume polarity -- 11.4. Substantivity and retention -- 11.5. Conclusions -- References. 12. Natural product analysis in the fragrance industry / Robin Clery -- 12.1. Introduction -- 12.2. Natural product analysis -- 12.2.1. The traditional approach -- 12.2.2. The headspace approach -- 12.3. Analytical techniques used in the fragrance industry -- 12.3.1. Extraction -- 12.3.2. Gas-liquid chromatography -- 12.3.2.1. GC injection systems -- 12.3.2.2. GC columns -- 12.3.2.3. GC detectors -- 12.3.3. Preparative liquid chromatography -- 12.4. Positive identification -- 12.5. Headspace collection -- 12.6. The future -- References -- 13. Chemoreception / Charles Sell -- 13.1. Why have a sense of smell? -- 13.2. Measuring smell -- 13.3. Cell wall structure -- 13.4. Proteins involved in signal generation -- 13.5. Anatomy of smell -- 13.6. Signal generation -- 13.7. The combinatorial nature of odour perception -- 13.8. Signal processing -- 13.9. Implications for odorant design -- References. 14. The search for new ingredients / Karen Jenner -- 14.1. Introduction -- 14.2. The need -- 14.3. The search -- 14.3.1. Clues from nature -- 14.3.2. Serendipity -- 14.3.3. Synthesis of analogues -- 14.4. Computer-aided design -- 14.4.1. Ligand-olfactory receptor modelling -- 14.4.2. Structure-activity relationships -- 14.4.2.1. The Hansch approach -- 14.4.2.2. Pattern recognition -- 14.4.2.3. Conformational analysis and the olfactophore approach -- 14.4.3. Conformational analysis on small data sets -- 14.5. Summary -- Acknowledgements -- References -- 15. Buying fragrance ingredients and selling fragrance compounds / David H. Pybus -- 15.1. Buying -- 15.1.1. Categorisation of suppliers and materials -- 15.1.1.1. Supplier relationships -- 15.1.1.2. Nature of material -- 15.1.2. Procurement organisation -- 15.2. Sales and marketing -- 16. The finale : brief submission / Les Small -- Appendix I. Some of the more important natural fragrance materials -- Appendix II. Useful addresses.
• Edition: 2nd ed
• Publisher Details: Cambridge : Royal Society of Chemistry
• Publication Date: 2015
• Extent: 1 online resource
• Subjects: 668.54; EDUCATION / Higher; Duftstoff; Parfüm; TECHNOLOGY & ENGINEERING / Industrial Technology; Popular science; Perfumes; Perfumes -- History; Perfumes -- Analysis; Parfum; Perfumes -- Análisis; Perfumes -- Historia
• Languages: English
• ISBNs: 9781782625476
• Related ISBNs: 178262547X
• Access Rights: Legal Deposit; Only available on premises controlled by the deposit library and to one user at any one time; The Legal Deposit Libraries (Non-Print Works) Regulations (UK).
• Access Usage: Restricted: Printing from this resource is governed by The Legal Deposit Libraries (Non-Print Works) Regulations (UK) and UK copyright law currently in force.