Nearshore Wave Propagation Characteristics in Steep Slope Zone of South Java Sea. Issue 1 (January 2021)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Zhang, Yajing; Chen, Hanbao; Xu, Yanan
• Is Part Of: IOP conference series. Volume 621:Issue 1(2020)
• Publication Date: 2021-01
• Subjects: Earth sciences -- Periodicals; Environmental sciences -- Congresses; Environmental sciences -- Periodicals; 550.5
• DOI: 10.1088/1755-1315/621/1/012158
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 1755-1307

Abstract

Abstract: NCEP provided the ocean wave long term data, one year nearshore wave surveyed at -20m water depth of South Java coast, the relation between two series synchronous data were analyzed, the wave direction are all prevailing from S to SSW. The wave in India Ocean is mostly swell, the significant wave height and period changed obviously and disorder while it is propagating on steep slope from deep water to shallow water. The wave spectrum were calculated, H0 and Tp were adopted for analyzing wave propagation characteristics from global wave position to survey position. The survey wave H0 and Tp have good relation with global wave. The reason of statistic Hs and Ts decreasing is dispersion on shallow water, which is shown from water surface elevation process.