Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double‐Blind, Randomized, Placebo‐Controlled Clinical Study. (25th July 2022)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Hugo Infante, Victor; Maria Maia Campos, Patricia; Darvin, Maxim; Lohan, Silke; Schleusener, Johannes; Schanzer, Sabine; Lademann, Juergen; Meinke, Martina
• Is Part Of: Photochemistry and photobiology. Volume 99:Number 1(2023)
• Page Start: 176
• Page End: 183
• Publication Date: 2022-07-25
• Subjects: Photochemistry -- Periodicals; Light -- Physiological effect -- Periodicals; 541.35
• DOI: 10.1111/php.13660
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 0031-8655

Abstract

Abstract: This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18–28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers. Abstract : This study evaluated the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent cutaneous photoaging. Forty participants were divided into three groups: vehicle, M. alternifolia essential oil and nanoemulsion. The skin of participants were evaluated in terms of their skin hydrolipid and structural characteristics. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity, with a higher penetration, reaching the viable epidermis. Verum groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, also improving the collagen fibers after application of the essential oil under study (RCM images). Melaleuca alternifolia essential oil provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.