A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes. (4th October 2019)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Khmaladze, Ia; Österlund, Christina; Smiljanic, Sandra; Hrapovic, Nina; Lafon‐Kolb, Virginie; Amini, Nahid; Xi, Li; Fabre, Susanne
• Is Part Of: Journal of cosmetic dermatology. Volume 19:Number 6(2020)
• Page Start: 1415
• Page End: 1425
• Publication Date: 2019-10-04
• Subjects: anti‐wrinkle -- pigmentation -- pollution -- skin aging -- skin barrier; Skin -- Diseases -- Treatment -- Periodicals; Lasers in surgery -- Periodicals; Skin -- Pathophysiology -- Periodicals; Surgery, Plastic -- Periodicals; 616.5
• DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13176
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 1473-2130

Abstract

Abstract: Background: High demand on anti‐aging skin care encourage the improvement and development of more personalized formulations with additional benefits for general skin health and age associated skin signs. The skin aging physical and biological phenotypes manifest differently between diverse ethnic populations. A highly polluted environment can be viewed as an extrinsic factor accelerating the skin aging process. Aim: To develop a unique formula with active complexes, having multifunctional effects for anti‐pollution, brightening and anti‐aging/barrier strengthening purposes with confirmed activities in vitro and ex vivo skin models, suitable for polluted skin. Methods: In vitro culture model with primary human skin cells, ex vivo studies with full‐thickness human skin, melanocyte 3D coculture model, gene expression of epidermal and dermal genes, anti‐glycation, proteasomal activity, melanin, and cytokine assays. Results: In vitro and ex vivo studies clearly demonstrated that diglucosyl gallic acid (active A) and the formulation complex inhibited pollution mediated MMP1 protein, CYP1A1 gene expression, and IL‐6 protein secretion, while caprylic/capric triglyceride, diacetyl boldine (active B) had anti‐melanogenic effect in in vitro primary melanocyte monoculture and 3D spheroid model. Another active compound, acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D), significantly upregulated epidermal barrier genes (Aquaporin 3 [AQP3], Filaggrin [FLG], caspase 14, and keratin 10) in human primary keratinocytes. Interestingly, both acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D) and niacinamide (active C) improved dermal gene expression (fibrillin‐1, Collagen type 1 alpha 1, Decorin, Lysyl oxidase‐like 1) and, moreover, had significant anti‐glycant and proteasomal promoter activity in human primary fibroblasts. Conclusion: Considering consumers need in heavily polluted areas, we developed a multipurpose formulation comprised of unique active complexes toward pollution, pollution induced inflammation, skin brightening, and antiaging concerns with beneficial results demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies.