Queer insurgency: Slava Mogutin and the politics of camp. Issue 1 (1st October 2021)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Roberts, Graham H.
• Is Part Of: Critical studies in men's fashion. Volume 8:Issue 1/2(2021)
• Page Start: 141
• Page End: 161
• Publication Date: 2021-10-01
• Subjects: Fashion design -- Periodicals; 391.1
• DOI: 10.1386/csmf_00037_1
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 2050-070X

Abstract

The subject of this article is Russo-American artist Slava Mogutin. A close associate of Gosha Rubchinskiy and Lotta Volkova, Mogutin has been based in New York since 1995. While he originally shot to fame as a poet and novelist, Mogutin is today better known as a performance artist, filmmaker and photographer. The aim of my article is to locate Mogutin, and in particular his fashion photography, within current debates around the representation of masculinity and the construction of masculine subjectivity/-ies. More specifically, using a visual analysis methodology, I analyse the camp aesthetics of Mogutin's fashion imagery. In a number of ways, Mogutin's camp aesthetic raises questions about displacement and identity, the clash between individual desires and social norms and ‐ as he puts it ‐ 'what it means to be a young man in the modern world'. It also constitutes an avowedly political challenge, not just to the state-sponsored homophobia and heteronormativity of Mogutin's native Russia but also to the identity politics underpinning today's fashion industry. I conclude by suggesting that Mogutin's openly political form of camp might pose a challenge to the traditional Sontagian view of camp as apolitical.