Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas. (October 2018)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Cavaleri, L.; Abdalla, S.; Benetazzo, A.; Bertotti, L.; Bidlot, J.-R.; Breivik, Ø.; Carniel, S.; Jensen, R.E.; Portilla-Yandun, J.; Rogers, W.E.; Roland, A.; Sanchez-Arcilla, A.; Smith, J.M.; Staneva, J.; Toledo, Y.; van Vledder, G.Ph.; van der Westhuysen, A.J.
• Is Part Of: Progress in oceanography. Volume 167(2018)
• Page Start: 164
• Page End: 233
• Publication Date: 2018-10
• Subjects: Water waves -- Wave dynamics -- Wind-wave interactions -- Wave-current interactions -- Wave forecasting -- Wave measurements; Oceanography -- Periodicals; 551.4605
• DOI: 10.1016/j.pocean.2018.03.010
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 0079-6611

Abstract

Highlights: A summary of the present state of the art in enclosed sea wave modelling. Many examples of present modelling capability and limitations. A deep discussion and analysis of wave-current interactions and modelling. A discussion of the present state of the art in wave modelling. A look and a prospect for the corresponding possible future developments. Abstract: In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, in particular of the inner and coastal seas, the present situation is framed with a short look at the past, a critical analysis of the present capabilities and a foresight of where the field is likely to go. After a short introduction, Chapter 2 deals with the basic processes at work and their modelling aspects. Chapter 3 highlights the interaction with wind and currents. Chapter 4 stresses the need for a more complete, spectral, approach in data assimilation. Chapter 5 summarizes the situation with a discussion on the present status in wave modelling and a look at what we can expect in the future.