Raman mapping coupled to self‐modelling MCR‐ALS analysis to estimate active cosmetic ingredient penetration profile in skin. Issue 11 (13th August 2020)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Stella, Aline; Bonnier, Franck; Tfayli, Ali; Yvergnaux, Florent; Byrne, Hugh J; Chourpa, Igor; Munnier, Emilie; Tauber, Clovis
• Is Part Of: Journal of biophotonics. Volume 13:Issue 11(2020)
• Page Start: n/a
• Page End: n/a
• Publication Date: 2020-08-13
• Subjects: confocal Raman mapping -- Delipidol -- human skin -- multivariate curve resolution alternating least squares -- penetration profiles; Photonics -- Periodicals; Optical materials -- Periodicals; Optics -- Periodicals; Medical instruments and apparatus -- Periodicals; 621.3605
• DOI: 10.1002/jbio.202000136
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 1864-063X

Abstract

Abstract: Confocal Raman mapping (CRM) is a powerful, label free, non‐destructive tool, enabling molecular characterization of human skin with applications in the dermo‐cosmetic field. Coupling CRM to multivariate analysis can be used to monitor the penetration and permeation of active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) after topical application. It is presently illustrated how multivariate curve resolution alternating least squares (MCR‐ALS) can be applied to detect and semi‐quantitatively describe the diffusion profile of Delipidol, a commercially available slimming ACI, from Raman spectral maps. Although the analysis outcome can be critically dependent on the a priori selection of the number of regression components, it is demonstrated that profiling of the kinetics of diffusion into the skin can be established with or without additionnal spectral equality constraints in the multivariate analysis, with similar results. Ultimately, MCR‐ALS, applied without spectral equality contraints, specifically identifies the ACI as one of main spectral components enabling to investigate its distribution and penetration into the stratum corneum and underlying epidermis layers. Abstract : Multivariate curve resolution alternating least squares (MC®‐ALS) coupled to confocal Raman mapping to detect and semi‐quantitatively describe the diffusion profile of Delipidol in the skin. It is demonstrated that profiling of the kinetics of diffusion into the skin can be established with or without additional spectral equality constraint in the multivariate analysis (ie, no reference spectrum of the active cosmetic ingredient is required).