Laboratory study on wave transformation and run-up in a 2DH reef-lagoon-channel system. (1st November 2020)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Yao, Yu; Chen, Songgui; Zheng, Jinhai; Zhang, Qiming; Chen, Shubin
• Is Part Of: Ocean engineering. Volume 215(2020)
• Publication Date: 2020-11-01
• Subjects: Infragravity waves -- Resonant modes -- Lagoon -- Rip channel -- Coral reef; Ocean engineering -- Periodicals; Ocean engineering; Periodicals; 620.4162
• DOI: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2020.107907
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 0029-8018

Abstract

Abstract: Many low-lying atolls fronted by coral reefs are vulnerable to wave-driven coastal flooding during extreme wave events. Previous laboratory studies on this issue focus mainly on the wave dynamics over one-dimensional horizontal (1DH) fringing reef profiles in wave flumes. To better understand wave transformation and run-up in a two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) reef-lagoon-channel system, a set of laboratory experiments are performed in a wave basin using an idealized physical model subjected to both regular and irregular waves. The wave height variation and wave spectrum evolution on the reef flat as well as wave run-up on the back-reef slope are first analyzed, and then the impacts of incident wave height, wave period and reef-flat wave level on these wave processes are investigated. Finally, the excitation of resonant modes is identified to account for the infragravity (IG) wave characteristics in the system. Highlights: Laboratory experiments in a wave basin using an idealized reef-lagoon-channel model with both regular and irregular waves. Variations of wave height and wave runup with various incident wave heights, wave periods and reef-flat water levels. Different resonant modes accounting for infragravity (IG) wave motions in the reef-lagoon-channel system.