A Model of Seam Pucker and Its Applications. Part II: Experimental. Issue 1 (2nd January 2020)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Muhammad, Amir; Leaf, Gerry A.V.; Stylios, George K.
• Is Part Of: Journal of the Textile Institute. Volume 111:Issue 1(2020)
• Page Start: 60
• Page End: 63
• Publication Date: 2020-01-02
• Subjects: Pucker severity -- Seam deformation -- garment appearance -- garment manufacturing; Textile industry -- Periodicals; Textile fabrics -- Periodicals; Periodicals; 677.005
• DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2019.1646076
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 0040-5000

Abstract

Abstract: A simple model of a lockstitch seam (301) has been developed in part I, which is used to derive a measure of the severity of puckering in the seam. This article compares the numerical assessment of pucker, derived from the model in part I, with fabric mechanics experiments and visual assessments of the phenomenon. It is shown that there is good linear correlation between the two. The model is then used to evaluate with precision, which of a selection of stiffeners, is needed to reduce pucker to an acceptable level, without overstifenning the seam. This work has implications in design and garment construction and manufacture, and in easy care garments. For the first time the idea of, precisely selecting a siffener so that it can locally to the seam alter the mechanics of the assembly, is introduced, as minimum intervention in the combat of seam puckering.