Extreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal. (10th January 2020)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Trulsen, Karsten; Raustøl, Anne; Jorde, Stian; Rye, Lisa Bæverfjord
• Is Part Of: Journal of fluid mechanics. Volume 882(2020)
• Publication Date: 2020-01-10
• Subjects: surface gravity waves; Fluid mechanics -- Periodicals; 532.005
• DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2019.861
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 0022-1120

Abstract

Abstract : Abstract : We report laboratory experiments of long-crested irregular water surface waves propagating over a shoal. For a sufficiently shallow shoal we find that the surface elevation can have a local maximum of skewness and kurtosis above the shallower part of the shoal close to the edge on the incoming side, and a local minimum of skewness over the downward slope on the lee side of the shoal. We find that the horizontal fluid velocity can have a local maximum and minimum of skewness at the same locations as those for the surface elevation. However, the kurtosis of the horizontal fluid velocity can have a local maximum over the downward slope on the lee side of the shoal, different from the location of the maximum of kurtosis of the surface elevation.