Age influences the skin reaction pattern to mechanical stress and its repair level through skin care products. (March 2018)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Zouboulis, Christos C.; Elewa, Rana; Ottaviani, Monica; Fluhr, Joachim; Picardo, Mauro; Bernois, Armand; Heusèle, Catherine; Camera, Emanuela
• Is Part Of: Mechanisms of ageing and development. Volume 170(2018)
• Page Start: 98
• Page End: 105
• Publication Date: 2018-03
• Subjects: A aged -- CH cholesterol -- CSL casual surface lipid(s) -- FA fatty acid(s) -- FAME fatty acid methyl esters -- GC–MS gas chromatography-mass spectrometry -- SC stratum corneum -- SQ squalene -- TEWL transepidermal water loss -- Y young; Aging skin -- Stress response -- Biophysical assessment -- Casual skin lipids -- Skin care -- Skin care products; Aging -- Periodicals; Developmental biology -- Periodicals; Aging -- Periodicals; Developmental Biology -- Periodicals; Vieillissement -- Périodiques; Biologie du développement -- Périodiques; Aging; Developmental biology; Periodicals; 612.67
• DOI: 10.1016/j.mad.2017.11.011
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 0047-6374

Abstract

Highlights: Aged and young skin differ in the basal biophysical properties and CSL composition. The aged skin has shown better barrier repair capacity and hydration levels compared with the young skin. The surprisingly better skin quality of the aged group was associated with higher concentrations of cholesterol and long chain FA. The skin groups responded differently to the external care. A widely used skin care product (DAC cream) has been proved not to improve skin quality. The subjective opinion of the individual users correlated to a great extent with the objective biophysical measurements. Abstract: Skin aging is associated with alterations of surface texture, sebum composition and immune response. Mechanical stress induces repair mechanisms, which may be dependent on the age and quality of the skin. The response to mechanical stress in young and aged individuals, their subjective opinion and the objective effectiveness of skin care products were evaluated by biophysical skin quality parameters (stratum corneum hydration, transepidermal water loss, skin pH, pigmentation and erythema) at baseline, 1, 6, 24 h and 7 days at the forearms of 2 groups of healthy volunteers, younger than 35 years (n = 11) and older than 60 years (n = 13). In addition, casual surface lipid composition was studied under the same conditions at the baseline and day 7 after mechanical stress induction. Evaluations were also performed in stressed skin areas treated daily with skin care products and the subjective opinion of the volunteers was additionally documented. The tested groups exhibited age-associated baseline skin functions as well as casual surface lipid composition and different reaction patterns to mechanical stress. Skin care was more effective in normalizing skin reaction to stress in the young than in the aged group. The subjective volunteer opinion correlated with the objective measurements.