A Suit of Silver: The Underdress of a Knight of the Garter in the Late Seventeenth Century. (1st January 2014)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Wilcox, David
• Is Part Of: Costume. Volume 48:Number 1(2014)
• Page Start: 21
• Page End: 45
• Publication Date: 2014-01-01
• Subjects: Charles II -- Charles Stuart -- sixth Duke of Lennox and third Duke of Richmond -- Order of the Garter -- ceremonial dress -- seventeenth-century men's clothing -- seventeenth-century tailoring; Costume -- Periodicals; Costume -- History -- Periodicals; 391
• DOI: 10.1179/0590887613Z.00000000035
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 0590-8876

Abstract

Abstract: This paper describes the cut and construction of the doublet and hose worn as underdress to the robes and insignia of the Knights of the Most Noble Order of the Garter at the English Court under Charles II. This example belonged to Charles Stuart, sixth Duke of Lennox and third Duke of Richmond (1639–1672), who was created a knight of the Garter in 1661. It is interesting on several counts: the dominant textile is a very pure cloth of silver; the elaborate hose are constructed with reference to earlier seventeenth-century models; the garments exemplify Charles II's understanding of the importance of ceremony to successful kingship. The suit was conserved for an exhibition at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh and the essay gives some account of discoveries made through this process. In addition, the garments are placed in the context of late seventeenth- century dress.