Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers. Issue 9 (21st October 2017)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Fryer, S.; Stone, K. J.; Sveen, J.; Dickson, T.; España-Romero, V.; Giles, D.; Baláš, J.; Stoner, L.; Draper, N.
• Is Part Of: European journal of sport science. Volume 17:Issue 9(2017)
• Page Start: 1177
• Page End: 1183
• Publication Date: 2017-10-21
• Subjects: Oxidative capacity -- microvascular adaptation -- near infrared spectroscopy -- blood flow -- perfusion -- sport climbing; Sports sciences -- Periodicals; Sports Medicine -- Periodicals; Exercise -- Periodicals; Sports -- Periodicals; 612
• DOI: 10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 1746-1391

Abstract

Abstract : This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (m⩒O2 ) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force–time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2–14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater ( p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = −1.166, 95% CI (−3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = −1.120, 95% CI (−3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114–3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553–2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or m⩒O2 . The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.