The Collar Revolution: Everyday Clothing in Guangdong as Resistance in the Cultural Revolution*. (13th June 2016)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Sun, Peidong
• Is Part Of: China quarterly. Number 227(2016:Sep.)
• Page Start: 773
• Page End: 795
• Publication Date: 2016-06-13
• Subjects: clothing, -- dress resistance, -- the Cultural Revolution, -- Guangdong; 着装选择, -- 着装抗争, -- 文化大革命, -- 广东; China -- History -- Periodicals; China -- Periodicals; 951
• DOI: 10.1017/S0305741016000692
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 0305-7410

Abstract

Abstract: Scholars have paid little attention to Maoist forces and legacies, and especially to the influences of Maoism on people's everyday dress habits during the Cultural Revolution. This article proposes that people's everyday clothing during that time – a period that has often been regarded as the climax of homogenization and asceticism – became a means of resistance and expression. This article shows how during the Cultural Revolution people dressed to express resistance, whether intentionally or unintentionally, and to reflect their motivations, social class, gender and region. Drawing on oral histories collected from 65 people who experienced the Cultural Revolution and a large number of photographs taken during that period, the author aims to trace the historical source of fashion from the end of the 1970s to the 1980s in Guangdong province. In so doing, the author responds to theories of socialist state discipline, everyday cultural resistance, individualism and the nature of resistance under Mao's regime. 摘要: 长期以来, 学界对毛主义的力量和遗产, 尤其是毛主义对文革时期民众日常着装的影响及其后果少有研究。本文提出被视为同质化和禁欲主义达到高潮的文革日常着装, 自文革初期起, 就成为多样化、个性化、性别化和地域化的一个抗争之场。文章表明民众如何透过有意无意的日常着装 "越界"行为表示抗争, 并以此显示动机、阶层、性别和地域层面的差异。以 65 个文革亲历者的口述史和大量被访者提供的照片为基础, 作者揭示了 1970 年代后期至 1980 年代以广东为代表的中国着装时尚井喷式爆发的历史原因; 其次, 通过日常着装反抗的研究, 回应了社会主义国家规训、日常文化抗争以及毛体制下个人主义和个体抗争的性质等相关理论.