A simple approximation for wave refraction – Application to the assessment of the nearshore wave directionality. (December 2015)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: López-Ruiz, Alejandro; Solari, Sebastián; Ortega-Sánchez, Miguel; Losada, Miguel
• Is Part Of: Ocean modelling. Volume 96:Part 2(2015:Dec.)
• Page Start: 324
• Page End: 333
• Publication Date: 2015-12
• Subjects: Wave angle -- Wave refraction -- Curvilinear coasts -- Snell's law; Oceanography -- Periodicals; Océanographie -- Périodiques; Oceanography; Periodicals; 551.46
• DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2015.09.007
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 1463-5003

Abstract

Highlights: Simple wave refraction approximation for curved coasts. The approximation is validated using an advanced numerical model. The limitations and performance of the approximation are discussed. Analyze the influence of shoreline geometry on nearshore wave directionality. The size of the rhythmic shoreline features affects the nearshore directionality. Abstract: This work presents a simple and relatively quick methodology to obtain the nearshore wave angle. The method is especially valuable for curvilinear coasts where Snell's law may provide excessively inaccurate results. We defined a correction factor, K, that depends on the geometry of the coast and on the wave climate. The values of this coefficient were obtained minimizing the differences with a sophisticated numerical model. The limitations and performance of the methodology are further discussed. The procedure was applied to a beach in Southern Spain to analyze the influence of shoreline geometry on nearshore wave directionality. Offshore and nearshore distributions of wave period and directions were analyzed, and the results showed that the geometry of the coast played a crucial role in the directionality of the nearshore waves, which also plays an important role in hydrodynamics. The methodology presented here is able to analyze and quantify the importance of this directionality without a noticeable computational cost, even when a long time series of wave data are considered. Hence, this methodology constitutes a useful and efficient tool for practical applications in Coastal and Ocean Engineering, such as sedimentary, wave energy, and wave climate studies.