Developing a quick and inexpensive in vitro (non‐animal) bioassay for mascara irritation. (3rd December 2013)

• Record Type: Journal Article
• Authors: Thomason, H.; Montagnes, D. J. S.
• Is Part Of: International journal of cosmetic science. Volume 36:Number 2(2014:Apr.)
• Page Start: 134
• Page End: 139
• Publication Date: 2013-12-03
• Subjects: Cosmetics -- Periodicals; 668.5505
• DOI: 10.1111/ics.12106
• Languages: English
• ISSNs: 0142-5463

Abstract

<abstract abstract-type="main" id="ics12106-abs-0001"> <title>Synopsis</title> <sec id="ics12106-sec-0001" sec-type="section"> <title>Objective</title> <p>Mascara is a mild irritant that causes a range of medical problems. Animal models to predict ocular irritation have, however, been questioned at a number of levels, and there is a continued need to develop <italic>in vitro</italic> testing methods.</p> </sec> <sec id="ics12106-sec-0002" sec-type="section"> <title>Methods</title> <p>We assess changes in an easily quantifiable attribute, ciliated protozoan growth rate, as a sensitive, sublethal measure. Specifically, we test six, randomly chosen, commercial mascara products against a control (as treatments) and reveal through ANOVA (<italic>n</italic> = 6, <italic>α </italic>= 0.05) significant differences in the specific growth rate to treatments (for both protozoa).</p> </sec> <sec id="ics12106-sec-0003" sec-type="section"> <title>Results</title> <p>We provide evidence that two easily cultured protozoa (<italic>Paramecium caudatum</italic>, <italic> Blepharisma japonicum</italic>) should be considered as models to assess ocular irritancy (and possibly cosmetics in general) and establish the groundwork for such studies to be applied at a more commercial level. We do this by developing a bioassay for mascara toxicity and indicate the low cost (after equipment is purchased, on the order of $100s) and the ease of performing such tests (able to be conducted by undergraduate students), as a consideration for their future commercial application. We first examined dose dependence of responses, revealing that there was a need to conduct preliminary work to determine appropriate levels for sublethal responses. We then show that some products resulted in mortality at high concentrations, others decreased growth rate by >50% (compared with the control), whereas others had no significant effect, compared with the control.</p> </sec> <sec id="ics12106-sec-0004" sec-type="section"> <title>Conclusion</title> <p>We have provided a novel, quick and inexpensive means to assess mascara; the next step is to validate these ciliate bioassays by comparison with animal testing and epidemiological studies, which is beyond the scope of this fundamental 'proof‐of‐concept' study.</p> </sec> </abstract>