Kam women artisans of China : dawn of the butterflies /: dawn of the butterflies. (2018)

• Record Type: Book
• Other Titles: Dawn of the butterflies
• Further Information: Note: Marie Anna Lee.
• Authors: Lee, Marie Anna
• Contents: Preface: Arrival -- 1. Introduction -- 1.1. Broken thread: heritage that survival centuries about to be forgotten -- 1.2 Finding the story's thread: preceding projects -- 1.3 Tying the knot: apprenticeship -- 1.4 Weaving the tale: matriarchs' lessons, big and small -- 2. Places and faces -- 2.1. The 'hidden' Kam: the Kam ethnic group -- 2.2. Dimen, the Kam spring: Dimen highlights -- 2.3 The 'living' museum: Dimen Dong Cultural Eco Museum -- 3. The living legends -- 3.1. The Za at a glance: five matriarchs I apprenticed with -- 3.2. Wu Meitz: the humble wealth of knowledge who never judges the younger generations -- 3.3 Wu Gaitian: the only one who remembers the origin of all beings -- 3.4. Wu Mnci: the widow who raised five sons and sang through it -- 3.5. Wu Yingniang: the one who sees once and remembers everything -- 3.6. Wu Huazhuan: the orphan who never went to school but learned it all -- 4. Papermaking -- 4.1. Paper magic: magic of Kam paper -- 4.2. Bark stripping: separating bark layers with a sickle -- 4.3. Mulberry hunt: finding mulberry tree branches -- 4.4. Endless mashing: making paper -- 4.5. Different processes, same results: slightly different techniques to make paper -- 4.6. Little books to store her treasures: making paper purses -- 5. Back-strap loom -- 5.1. Weaving ABCs: introduction to weaving and back-strap looms -- 5.2. Liping interlude: gathering with Wu Mnci and her family in Liping -- 5.3. Colorful threading: making a back-strap loom and warping it --5.4. Flower my belts: weaving 'flower' belts on a back-strap loom -- 5.5. Baby steps: we weave a simple pattern on a back-strap loom -- 5.6. After all, practice makes perfect: restretching warp on a back-strap loom and making secondary heddles -- 6. Spinning and preparing thread -- 6.1. From flowers to fabric: making Kam fabric -- 6.2. Yarn beyond compare: spinning yarn from ramie fibers -- 6.3. Sunny twists: preparing cotton thread -- 6.4. Songs and cones: winding threads on cones and preparing the warp -- 7. Frame loom -- 7.1. Great-great-grandmother's loom: Wu Meitz tells the history of her loom -- 7.2. Let the timber sing: Kam loom anatomy --7.3. Dressing the loom: beaming the warp and preparing the loom -- 8. From back-strap to frame loom -- 8.1. Breaking the back on warping benches: warping a frame loom to make narrow drawstrings -- 8.2. Drawstring as an art form: weaving narrow decorative drawstrings on a frame loom -- 9. Indigo paste -- 9.1. Indigo blues: indigo around the world -- 9.2. Two tales of orphaned girls: taboo surrounding indigo -- 9.3. Four seasons: taking care of indigo plants -- 9.4. Making the Kam gold: preparing indigo paste -- 10. Indigo vat -- 10.1. Grandmother's bath: preparing an indigo dyebath -- 10.2. Blue do-over: redoing indigo dyebath -- 10.3. Sometimes others know better: Miao people's indigo dyebath -- 11. Dying the indigo -- 11.1 Blue nails are in: dying hand-made cloth in indigo -- 11.2. Dye, dye, dye some more: second indigo dyeing lesson -- 11.3. Interlude: feast for a baby: we visit a baby celebration -- 11.4. Loop backwards: I hang the cloth the wrong way -- 11.5. Our blues of the blues: we dye in our vat, unassisted -- 12. Post-indigo treatment -- 12.1. Stiff beans: treating the cloth with bean starch -- 12.2. Mountain goats: finding roots and leaves to make red dye -- 12.3. Red to black: making red dyestuff and apply it to indigo-dyed cloth -- 12.4. Ox sludge: making ox skin liquid and treating the fabric with it -- 13. Pleated skirt -- 13.1. Sticky flutes: pleating fabric for a skirt -- 13.2. Itchy hair: sewing pleats together and stiffening the skirt in ox skin liquid -- 13.3. Hollow buckets: steaming the skirt pleats and dyeing them in indigo -- 13.4. Sticky stiching: hand-sewing the skirt -- 14. Embroidery -- 14.1. Sunflowers and moths: Kam embroidery -- 14.2. The ageless under-apron: under-apron made more than sixty-five years ago -- 14.3. Bridge super sampler: Wu Mnci shows her embroidery -- 14.4. Flower past blossom: satin stitch embroidery technique -- 14.5. Glasses rule: embroidering with Wu Huazhuan and her friends -- 14.6. A butterfly needs flowers to live: embroidering a hat -- 14.7. Feng Shui master's patterns: cutting embroidery patterns -- 14.8. Centipedes, dragons, and snakes: Dimen motifs -- 15. Garments -- 15.1. Made in China, by the Kam: introduction to Kam garments in Dimen -- 15.2. Subtle patterns: sewing patterns for a jacket -- 15.3. Who needs tailor's chalk?: Cutting fabric -- 15.4. Not my grandma's sewing machine: sewing a jacket -- Birds in song: sewing an under-apron and calf-wraps -- 15.6. Dragon shoes: making pointed cloth shoes -- 16. "Kamness" in making -- 16.1. Dinner that made us family: how we earned a place by serving the women -- 16.2. The whole package: learning from the lifestyle -- 16.3. Different times, different songs: Kam songs -- 16.4. Dramatic didactics: Kam opera -- 16.5. No nails needed: Kam architecture -- 16.6 Haven no more: impact of industrialization and globalization -- 16.7. Building bridges: hope for the future -- 16.8. Butterfly songs: how the Za found their voice -- Glossary -- Kam vocabulary -- Conversion chart -- Bibliography -- Index -- Acknowledgments.
• Publisher Details: Newcastle upon Tyne : Cambridge Scholars Publishing
• Publication Date: 2018
• Extent: 1 online resource (xiii, 275 pages), color illustrations, color maps
• Subjects: 745.0951; Women artisans -- China; Handicraft -- China; Dong (Chinese people) -- China -- Guizhou Sheng -- Social life and customs; Handicraft; Dong (Chinese people) -- Social life and customs; Women artisans; ART / Folk & Outsider Art; CRAFTS & HOBBIES / Folkcrafts; China -- Guizhou Sheng; China; Electronic books; Electronic books
• Languages: English
• ISBNs: 9781527527157; 1527527158
• Related ISBNs: 1527505537; 9781527505537
• Notes: Note: Includes bibliographical references and index.; Note: Description based on online resource; title from PDF title page (EBSCO, viewed February 5, 2019).
• Access Rights: Legal Deposit; Only available on premises controlled by the deposit library and to one user at any one time; The Legal Deposit Libraries (Non-Print Works) Regulations (UK).
• Access Usage: Restricted: Printing from this resource is governed by The Legal Deposit Libraries (Non-Print Works) Regulations (UK) and UK copyright law currently in force.